Chef Cathleens Spring Lunch

April 28, 2014










all images © Kathrin Koschitzki



A while ago I met Cathleen Boydron, a beautiful woman and excellent Chef.
To be honest, it was hard for me to decide what to be more fascinated about: her divine cooking (just exactly how I love food: freshly picked from the market, not too complicated in preparation, but always with a twist that makes it very special and that lets everyone roll their eyes when eating the first bite), her precious Parisian home (a turn-of-the-century town house, prettier than you could imagine it, with molding on the ceilings, a fireplace, oak floors and an enchanted garden around it) or Cathleen herself: an American-French Lady, swirling around in her cooking jacket like she never did anything else before...

Cathleen prepared this Spring Lunch for her Family on a Saturday, while her little daughter was walking around in the kitchen with Cathleens high heels on.



Spring Lunch (serves 6)

Young vegetables in Tempura
Green Asparagus with Parmesan Shavings and White Asparagus in herbed Hollandaise
Slowly roasted Young veal loin with Chanterelles and Almonds
Berry Pavlova with fresh whipped cream


Young vegetables in Tempura

Young veggies, like baby turnips, pink radishes, french green beans, pencil carrots, mini beetroot, zucchini flowers, edible flowers like violets, pansies

100 g of all purpose flour or rice flour
1 lightly beaten egg
15 cl ice cold water
20 g blue poppy seeds
deep fat frying
2L peanut oil

For the batter, whisk together  the flour and beaten egg, slowly pour the ice cold water and whisk briskly to eliminate the lumps. Add the poppy seeds and whisk again. Keep chilled until ready for use.
Wash all of the vegetables. Spring vegetables have a very thin skin and therefore don’t need peeling, except for the beetroots. Heat the peanut oil in a heavy pan or deep fat fryer to 180° C. Whisk the tempura batter and dip the vegetables into the batter by small quantities. Use a fork or chopsticks to take the veggies out of the batter, so that the excess batter will drip off.  Once the oil is to temperature, place the veggies delicately into the oil, about 4-5 at a time . Turn them around in the oil using a slotted spoon. Remove the vegetables once they are golden brown and place on paper towel to absorb excess oil. 
Sprinkle with « fleur de sel » or Maldon sea salt and serve immediately.


Roasted Green asparagus with organic parmesan shavings,
poached white asparagus from the "Landes" region of France in herbed hollandaise emulsion

18 local green asparagus
a nice chunk of organic parmesan
fruity olive oil
fresh ground pepper

Cut the woody end of the asparagus off. Green asparagus don’t really need to be peeled but I like to pel them lightly with a vegetable peeler ; the contrast of the light green stems and dark green tips looks nice after peeling. Boil a large quantity of water in a wide pan.  The asparagus should lay flat.  Once the water boils, salt it with sea salt, 10 g of salt per liter of water.  The salt will help preserve the vivid green color. 
Check the tenderness after 10 minutes by inserting the tip of a knife into one of the stems.  The asparagus should be slightly firm. Strain the asparagus and place immediately into a large quantity of ice cold water.  This will fix the chlorophyll, keeping the asparagus appetizingly green.  Place the asparagus onto a large platter and just before serving, sprinkle with some good olive oil, pepper with 
freshly ground pepper, shave fresh parmesan over the top using a vegetable peeler.

18 white asparagus
1 fresh egg at room temp
1 teaspoon of French mustard
 25 cl grape seed oil
fleur de sel, white pepper
¼ bunch of flat parsley
¼ bunch of cilantro
¼ bunch of chives
¼ bunch of tarragon
juice of ½ lemon

Peel the asparagus with a vegetable peeler.  Take off quite a bit of the stem, sometimes white asparagus can be pretty woody. Boil a large quantity of water in a wide pan.  The asparagus should lay flat.  Once the water boils, salt it with sea salt, 10 g of salt per liter of water.
Check the tenderness after approx.. 12 minutes, the white asparagus should be cooked to more tender than the green.
Strain off water and place the asparagus onto a plate with covered with paper towel to absorb excess water. Let them cool off before placing in fridge.

Hollandaise emulsion
Prepare a classic mayonnaise: all of the ingredients must be at room temperature.
Separate the yolk and egg white.  Keep the egg white in a clean bowl.
Whisk the yolk with the mustard, pour the grape seed oil progressively while whisking briskly.  The mayonnaise should take quickly becoming quite creamy. Continue whisking and adding oil until all of the oil is emulsionned.
Add the lemon juice, season with fleur de sel and fresh ground pepper. 
Whisk the egg white until it become frothy and creamy, but not too stiff. 
Wash all of the herbs and chop finely. Add the frothy egg white to the mayonnaise delicately using a spatula.  Add all of the chopped herbs.  Check the seasoning.


Slowly roasted Young veal loin with chanterelles and almonds

1 veal loin, weight 1,5 kg
(have your butcher tie the loin up like a roast and ask him for some veal bones)
2 sweet white onions
½ bunch of fresh sage
15 cl of dry white wine
1 l of veal stock
salt and pepper
olive oil

800 g of chanterelles
3 spring onions
12 fresh peeled almonds
1 candied lemon (candied in salt)
organic lemon zest
olive oil
10 g of sweet butter
fleur de sel and fresh ground pepper

Preheat oven to 190° C. Take the meat out of the refrigerator at least one hour before cooking. Peel and slice the onions, wash and spin dry the fresh sage. Heat a cast iron dutch oven with 3 tablespoons of olive oil and sweat the onions along with the stems of the fresh sage. The onions should not brown.
Remove the onions and keep aside in a bowl. Season the veal on all sides with fine salt. Heat 3 more tablespoons of oil in the dutch oven and brown the loin on all sides. Add the veal bones, they should brown as well. You can add a little fresh butter to help the browning. Spoon the melted butter over the loin roast regularly. The meat should be well browned, almost caramelized but not burned.
Remove the browned meat from the dutch oven, remove excess fat using paper towel, heat the meat juices in the dutch oven and deglaze with the dry white wine. Let the alcohol evaporate.
Put the veal loin back into the Dutch oven, add the onions and fresh sages leaves, cover in veal stock and bring to a boil. Cover with lid and place in oven for 1 hour. Turn the roast over after 30 minutes of cooking.
After one hour, remove the roast from the dutch oven, place on a rack over a pan and cover with foil. The roast must rest at least 15 minutes before being sliced.
Place the dutch oven on the stove and reduce the cooking juices. Strain the juices into a small saucepan and heat. Add a tablespoon of sweet butter and whisk briskly to thicken the sauce and
make it velvety.
Slice the roast and place on a serving platter and pour some sauce over the top. Serve the rest of the sauce in a sauce dish.

Cut off the end of the stem of the Chanterelles. Slice the larger mushrooms in two, and wash all of the mushrooms rapidly in a large bowl of water. Remove them quickly from the water and spin them dry in a salad spinner. Wash the spring onions and slice them at an angle.
Heat 3 Tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy frying pan. Cook the mushrooms on high heat, salt and cook for one minute, until they render their natural water.
Strain off the water, remove the mushrooms. Add the sweet butter, when the butter becomes frothy, add the mushrooms and the spring onions; cook for a few more minutes to brown the mushrooms.
Rinse the candied lemon and slice the zest in a fine julienne. Zest the lemon using a microplane
Add the lemon julienne and the zest, then the almonds. Heat gently.
Serve the warm mushrooms with the veal loin.

Berry pavlova with fresh whipped cream

200 g of egg white
200 g of granulated sugar
200 g of powdered sugar
33 cl of full fat whipping cream
Strawberries, raspberries, blueberries

Preheat oven to 90°. Weigh all of the ingredients before starting.
Whip the egg whites with an electric mixer. When the egg whites become frothy, start adding the granulated sugar, little by little. This will stiffen them and make them shiny. When the egg whites are stiff, stop whipping and add the powder sugar. Mix gently with a spatula.
Cover a baking sheet with baking parchment paper. Spread the meringue evenly creating a thick disk shape. Scoop out the center; this is where the whipped cream and fresh berries will be placed once the meringue is baked and cooled.
Place a second baking sheet under the first one . Place the oven rack in the middle and bake the meringue for 70 minutes.
The meringue should be very white. Once baked, remove from oven and slide the parchment paper onto a rack to cool thoroughly.
Place the whisks, the bowl and the whipping cream in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
Whip the cream slowly at first then more and more rapidly until the cream thickens and becomes firm. About 8 minutes.
Place the meringue on a serving platter. Fill the scooped out section with whipped cream. Add the fresh washed berries in the center and sprinkle with powdered sugar.
The pavlova may be held in the refrigerator an hour but should be eaten the same day!


The Young Vegetable Tempura recipe has been published in the 11th KINFOLK Magazine.




5 Nice Words

  1. Wonderful photos! And the style of them remembered me of my Kinfolk Book. I can imagine how special the family is and how they live, I would like to see more photos of them, it made me curious :). Thanks for sharing the recipes.
    Barbara

    AntwortenLöschen
  2. "Place a second baking sheet under the first one."
    Wieso sollte man dies tun, nachdem die Eiweißmasse bereits auf das erste Backpapier aufgetragen wurde?

    AntwortenLöschen
    Antworten
    1. Liebe Thea,
      ich frag Cathleen! Liebe Grüsse

      Löschen
  3. beautiful photos! love those giant windows above the sink - so pretty

    www.shershegoes.com

    AntwortenLöschen
  4. I take a class with Chef Cathleen, she is very nice and delicate. Your photos are really beautiful... Thank you very much for all this poetry

    AntwortenLöschen